Long time since my last blog…
The 2014 alpine bouldering season has been great. Over the last six or seven months John Gass and I have been going to Area B trying some established climbing and looking to develop some new boulders as well. There are some climbs that we thought are worth sharing with the climbing community especially when they were so easy to locate. The first photo below displays where some of the new climbing is in relation to 1%er V13 (established by Chris Schulte). Below is a photo list and suggested grades for some of the boulders. The purpose is to inform people and hopefully go and try the climbing. There will be a video about the climbing as well sometime soon.
basic map of the new climbing
Stingray V10 – FA Ivo Penchev
First move is to a cool pinch with a high left foot and a right toe-hook. The second move is the crux of the boulder to an okay right hand. If you start on the crux right hand and left hand on the better side pull, that is the stand start and is about V6 called “Stingray Stand”.
John Gass on the first ascent of “The Overlook” V9
The climb starts standing on the boulder in in front and moves right on the arete. On the photo above John is going through the harder moves of the boulder. Easy to see this boulders as it is standing tall 10 min uphill from “Stingray” and “1%er”.
“Pass or Fail” V3 by John Gass
Highball hard V3 sitting between 1%er and Stingray. Starts on obvius underclings.
John Gass on the first ascent of “The Golden Face” V7 – Area B
This climb is located about 10 minutes up the hill and to the right from The Hume Boulder. Slabby and tall boulder, super fun!
“The Reverse” V8/9 – First ascent by Ivelin Penchev
Located right below the climb shown above “The Golden Face”. Start with a right hand all the way out on the lip (below my right foot on the photo above), and a left hand up at the lowest part of the crack (left of my right hand on the photo above). You have to basically do this cool reverse move from the start in order to do the boulder, then a powerful easier move to a better crimp hold on the lip, to a slab by top-out.
“The Area B warmup” V1 – FA John Gass
If you end up climbing at this cluster of boulders, this is the best warmup. Great rock, tall, scoop-like start, and a big move to a jug. DO IT! this boulder has many hard projects on it as well